Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of cities cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to explore these tales and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.